One of a dozen sculptures erected along the Malecón in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.
My brother David is a man who appreciates luxury. “It’s all about the view,” he kept saying as he enticed my husband and me to join him and his wife in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. To prove his point, he rented a penthouse condominium to share and insisted we take the master suite. From the bed, all we could see was the ocean. Even the shower had a picture window above the sea. The view below the expansive deck was the Malecón, the city’s 1-kilometer promenade. From our three-story perch, we watched it come alive each morning: Stands sprang up selling crafts and colorful shish kabobs of fruit; a guy hawked Herbalife; a man painted completely brown posed as a human statue; break dancers drew crowds. When we watched the moon rise above the Pacific, it transformed into a dessert buffet: beautiful cakes, homemade ice cream and distinctive dishes from elotes to crepes.
All this was set against the backdrop of the majestic Sierra Madre Mountains, which span to the rocky shore. A picturesque walk up the Malecón is the city’s “romantic zone,” where traditional houses sit beside trendy bars. At dark it comes alive with the city’s best nightlife. The area calls itself “a true gay village” because members of the LGBT community own many businesses. Gay marriage is legal here. Thriving destination wedding venues advertise with photos of couples against a backdrop of the Bay of Banderas surrounded by mountains.
Our cousins, Ellen and Bobby, have spent several vacation months at the Shangra-La, a high rise near the marina, and they’ve made friends with other couples who come often. They have a magnificent 12th-floor view from their 2,500-square-foot apartment, and downstairs there’s a mile-around swimming pool, a welcome alternative to the chilly ocean. All-inclusives also rise along this part of the shoreline, where you can enjoy your view from a swim-up bar. I was fascinated by the dozen sculptures erected along the Malecón, so I took a free walking tour one morning to learn more.
There’s one of a whimsical unicorn that brings good luck if you rub it; a gluttonous man eating negative emotions; the iconic boy on a seahorse. They’re large, bronze and often attract mischievous children or drunks who climb on them. “What’s the liability issue if someone falls off?” a tourist asked the guide. “There is none,” he replied. “If people get injured, it’s their problem. In Mexico you are responsible for your own safety.” Art thrives throughout the town. In Lazaro Park, I encountered a community group on their knees chatting while they added yet more tiles to the kaleidoscope of mosaic benches and walls. Following David’s quest for luxury with a view, we celebrated our anniversary at the beautiful Café de Artistes. I actually gasped when we entered the astonishing courtyard garden, where tables are nestled on stone ledges surrounded by statues and glittering lights.
Our celebratory dessert was plated upon a mirror with a flowerpot of chocolate mousse and a standing spun sugar heart. Another night, our view was of a beautiful sunset from under a thatched roof while eating lobster on the beach. Puerto Vallarta is in Jalisco, where blue agave is grown. Throughout the town, there are small shops offering tastings of small batch tequila brands. You can also book a tour to visit the farms.
Cousin Ellen said, “Half our friends go to Florida to get a view of the ocean and half go to Arizona for views of the mountains. In Puerto Vallarta, you can have both.” For us, it added to our list of wonderful Mexican getaways. We were surprised to learn that we could have breakfast in the Lowcountry and be in Puerto Vallarta enjoying the view by lunchtime.
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